A Game of Tejo in Salento, Colombia by Tim Ghazzawi:
In Spanish, the word tejo means many things. In Colombia, the word tejo loosely translates to: “a game in which you throw metal discs at triangular paper pouches filled with gunpowder and arranged in a circle atop a board of clay.” Sound too fun to be true? Take a look at this playing field:
The rules are simple (or so we thought): if the disc you throw causes a pouch to explode, you earn 3 points. If your disc lands in the middle of the paper pouches, you earn 6 points. If your disc causes the pouch to explode AND lands in the middle of the paper pouches, you earn 9 points. First to 21 points wins. Think of it as an explosive version of cornhole and prepare for auditory overload. When players are good, the echo of loud popping noises fills the air. People cheer and clink their beer bottles. Losers scoff and drink more, too.
The night I played tejo we were a group of five: two Dutchies, an Austrian, and two U.S. backpackers. We were also mostly terrible. So terrible in fact that we made up our own rules to earn points more easily. For example, a throw we thought was on-target but didn’t cause a pouch to explode would arbitrarily earn four points. You also earned one point at our board if your disc merely landed in the clay. Our rules didn’t matter, though. Things were not exploding and our area remained relatively popping noise-free. At times we were frustrated but no one in our group was good enough to justify being too mad. So we laughed a lot and drank instead.
That is until the Greeks challenged us. Like any good war epic. And things got more competitive. These Greeks were in Colombia on a coffee plantation tour and spending the evening in Salento celebrating one of their birthdays. They seemed rowdy and fun so when they dared us to play we accepted anticipating a good time. Turns out they were also annoyingly adept at the game, even when drunk. Not long after we started, our team fell behind 7-16. We tried to motivate each other. They trash-talked with every throw and were cheerful in the way people are cheerful when they know that they’re going to win. I did have the only 9-pointer of the night to briefly tie the score at 16-16 but that momentum was short-lived. We lost the next round.
On the wall of the game hall is a mural of the Cocora Valley, where I would visit the next day. The greens and blues of the painting are surprisingly bright given the run-down ugly charm of the place. I liked the mural, though – its painted palm trees were something to admire while losing. Despite my team’s defeat, I recommend all future travelers to Colombia try tejo. You can find a place to play in most cities, big and small. Just remember to keep expectations low and avoid the Greeks, though perhaps you should drink a lot like they did. I think we were sipping a bad cheap beer called Poker, a gamble that didn’t pay off.
THE FACTS
I traveled to Salento by bus after my stay in southern Colombia. It’s a quaint touristy town, conveniently located near the Cocora Valley and various coffee plantations. It’s also known for serving delicious trout. More than a stopover, Salento is as an enjoyable destination city between Cali and Medellín up north.
Cancha De Tejo Los Amigos
It’s the best tejo place in Salento, generously described as an “open-air sports bar”.
There are countless food and drink options in town. Trying the trout is a must and I recommend dining in one of the pop-up tents in the central plaza.
Brunch de Salento is a crowd-favorite because of its diverse international menu. The restaurant also offers tasty bagged lunches perfect for day-trips and long bus rides.
El Punto Veggie is a modest establishment with good and light vegetarian options.
- To get to the Cocora Valley, catch a jeep ride from central Salento to transport you to the entrance of the park.
- Once in Cocora, there are two primary hike options, both of which lead you to the famed wax palms, just in different orders. I recommend hiking counter-clockwise (on the map). It’s a tougher up-hill climb but one that rewards you with an easy and enjoyable finish through the valley.
- Tours to coffee plantations and the farther-away Los Nevados National Park are best booked through one of the many tour agencies in town.
If you enjoyed reading about my experience playing tejo in Salento, Colombia you might also check out the following stories related to my other recent South American adventures:
- “In Cars with Strangers: A Reviving Return to Cuenca, Ecuador” by Tim Ghazzawi
- “Shoe Strings: My First Week in Ecuador” by Tim Ghazzawi
