A Boat Ride in Xochimilco, Mexico by Tim Ghazzawi:
Their names are Gloria, Maria, Stephanie, and Yolanda. Painted in a neon rainbow explosion of color, these wooden trajineras (or gondolas) dock at the Xochimilco Canals outside of Mexico City, where they await their passengers for the day. It’s the floating gardens I was there to see. A series of loosely connected tiny “islands” that line the channels of the waterway, which wraps around the neighborhood of Xochimilco like a snake. It takes days to navigate the different channels from beginning to end. My brother and I opted instead to join a hodgepodge crew of tourists and locals for a two-hour trip down the main thoroughfare.
The setting is simultaneously industrial and natural. The tops of shops and apartment buildings are visible through the treeline, offset by the garish yellow, pink, and orange of the boats on the water. It’s both noisy and tranquil, unpredictable and yet still relaxing. At the calmer points of the journey, our boat was the only one in sight, traveling smoothly and slowly. During busier times, we competed as bumper boats. Oarsmen hectically yelled directions at one another, abruptly braking, sharply turning left and right, so as to avoid direct collisions with the others who shared the water. Passengers weren’t the only ones on deck that day either.
At Xochimilco, artisans sell bracelets and hats and figurines on boats of their own. Traveling musicians equipped with vihuelas and small drums entertain the crowds. I even managed to buy a quesadilla from a pair of cooks who, together on their portable gas stove, sell their menu items made-to-order from their seafaring kitchen.
The river’s most famous floating garden is “themed,” though that description is deceptively playful. It’s called Isla de las Muñecas or Island of the Dolls. Scattered and tied, strung up and hung, children’s dolls and stuffed animals litter the branches of this particularly infamous section of the waterway. They are discolored and torn, ripped and decapitated, scary and sobering.
Legend has it that years ago a young girl drowned there. Her doll was found floating not far away. As a way to honor and sate her spirit, for years dolls were placed at the same sight. The result is jarring and numbing. Passengers who see the dolls stare, point, and whisper. The empty eyes of the dolls stare back in return. But the garden is small and unless you detour from the main waterway for a more intimate tour, your time at the Island of the Dolls is short-lived. Our boat simply floated by without so much as an acknowledgment.
On our return to the dock, we passed a lively boat celebrating a family reunion. I recognized the occasion because of their matching green t-shirts. They had brought with them a boom-box type speaker that blasted fun music. Their coolers overflowed with alcohol. They danced with arms and glasses raised and their boat rocked back and forth in response. I’ve yet to visit Venice and ride in their gondolas. Something tells me that family would not have be welcomed there. I think they chose right.
THE FACTS
I traveled to Mexico City with my brother and dad in December of 2016. We stayed in Zócalo, where the city’s main plaza is located and also (as we found out) where a giant mechanical Christmas tree is erected every holiday season. If you’re interested in an unusual natural city experience, an escape on a boat ride in Xochimilco, Mexico will hit the spot.
The dock to board one of the gondolas is called Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas.
To get there, walk from Terminal Xochimilco, the last stop of the Tren Ligero train line or simply take a taxi or an Uber.
Remember to pack a picnic basket, speaker, and whatever else you want for your boat ride!
Avenue Francisco I. Madero 30
Centro Histórico de la Ciudad
06000 Mexico City, Mexico
reservaciones@hotelritz.mx
+52-800-201-5256
MUMEDI is a cool combination cafe-restaurant-store-art museum-hotel located in Zócalo.
Beautifully and uniquely constructed, Cafe de Tacuba features enormous murals, winding staircases, and open balconies throughout its multi-level restaurant. The food is traditional and music performances are offered nightly.
The city’s street taco fare offerings are vast, delicious, and similar (but not the same). I think this article about them is a cool one.
*I haven’t been, but people rave about Pujol, frequently ranked as one of the best restaurants in the world.
- I’ve heard people say this about a lot of cities, but this is especially true of my experience in Mexico City: I wish I had more time there. We were there for one week and needed to simply explore more neighborhoods and not pre-plan so many day-trips to nearby smaller cities.
- Despite my first travel tip, a visit to Teotihuacan, a fascinating archaeological site, should be on your must-see list.
- In whirlwind fashion, we walked through many neighborhoods, including Centro Histórico, Condesa, Polanco, Hipódromo, Coyoacán, and Roma Norte and Roma Sur. All and more are worth visiting. This article was helpful to me when navigating.
If you enjoyed reading about my boat ride in Xochimilco, Mexico, you might also check out the following stories related to other blended urban/natural adventures:
