Snorkeling in Placencia Belize with sea turtle and ray
Belize Central & South America

“Feeling Chummy”

Snorkeling in Placencia, Belize by Tim Ghazzawi:

Speed humps. The locals call them sleeping policemen. I passed these “officers” on my way to the port of Placencia, from where most of the peninsula’s dive and snorkel trips embark. They help to slow the traffic on the roadway to and from downtown, a place weather-worn but prospering. At the dock I signed a liability waiver I did not read and was fitted for a mask and fins. Not long after that, I boarded a boat bound for the Silk Cayes, a dot of blue-green reefy paradise located less than an hour from the dive shop in town. 

Dolphin-spotting
GoPro photo of fish

The first snorkel dives consisted of two roundabout swims of the Cayes’ reef system. Life is bountiful there. Harmless translucent jellyfish bob in and out of view. Further below, blue tang, angel fish, barracuda, and parrot fish add speckled color to the coral as they weave in and out of its tentacles. When I surfaced for a break, the occasional pelican circled overhead.

Just off-site, a group of Belizeans were fishing, where they have fished for many years. Early each morning, these fishermen separate from their main vessel into smaller boats and spend the day raising lobster, shrimp, and conch from the Caribbean Sea. In the afternoon, together they return to their vessel and clean their wares by throwing the guts of the day’s catch back into the water. Chum sinks beneath them and it is amidst this chum that my third snorkel of the day took place.

Turtle-following in Placencia Belize near the Silk Cayes
Snorkeling in Placencia Belize with sharks and a ray
Snorkeling in Placencia Belize with rays
Snorkeling with spotted eagle ray in Placencia Belize

The waters beneath me swirled with sea turtles, nurse sharks, and spotted eagle rays, all revolving around the fisherman’s vessel in search of loose scraps of food. My experience there was surreal, if not unnerving. Clearly animated by the activity around them, the marine life navigated the area with quick movements and sharp turns. If I managed to briefly forget that sharks have teeth, having swum a safe distance away from the one to my right, I was not-long-after reminded that sting rays have stingers, two having floated into view on my left. The animals meanwhile seemed unbothered if not emboldened by the number of snorkelers crashing their dinner party, as if to say with upturned noses to us, prospective other patrons in line, “We have a standing reservation here.”

The tide was calm that day but the high volume of swimmers, human and fish alike, eventually turned the water murky and the bubbles from our erratic flippers constrained our vision. So after less than 30 minutes, I surfaced for good and boarded the boat back to shore. Despite the third swim’s brevity, the chance to be near so large a swarm of creatures was unlike any underwater experience I’ve had before. To be so close to such a variety of sea life, albeit a staged variety, heightened the adrenaline that all adventurers seek. Next time, though, I’d rather feel more like a fish than fish bait.

THE FACTS

I went snorkeling in Placencia, Belize on a splurgy family vacation in March of 2019. To get to Placencia, fly into Belize City (BZE) then to Placencia (PLC) on a short 30-minute local flight. Ground transportation is available, but that trek might cost you just as much as a flight and takes at least 3.5 hours.

Go Sea Tours

Placencia Village

goseabelize@gmail.com

(501) 523-3033

Belize Ocean Club

Placencia Road, Stann Creek, Belize

reservations@belizeoceanclub.com

(501) 671-4500

TuttiFruti

Gelato and Ice-Cream

  • Belize Ocean Club is an upscale ocean and lagoon-front resort. It has the best pool in Placencia and its staff are beyond accommodating. The ocean side is tempting but the lagoon-facing part of the resort is more peaceful and home to the best sunsets.
  • Turtle Inn serves a Dutch/Indonesian special every Monday and Thursday
  • Get the passionfruit gelato at TuttiFruti! Note: the shop is closed on Wednesdays.

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